|
The ruins of the city of soothsayers can still be seen on an extensive site stretching from the hill slopes to the gulf.
Although it was not then a Lycian city, Telmessus was first mentioned in the tribute lists of the Delian League in the 5C BC. It became Lycian in the 4C BC only after the siege of the city by Pericles, King of Limyra. Later, it was taken by one of the governors of Alexander the Great with a trick similar to the Trojan Horse. An orchestra consisting of women passed the guards and occupied the acropolis. Telmessus became part of the Roman province of Asia in 133 BC. During the Byzantine period Telmessus was known as Anastasiopolis. Rum (Turkish Greek) population lived in the area until 1922.
AT PRESENT , Fethiye is a small cozy port with saw-dust restaurants, small cafes and several old buildings behind the main street converted to cute stores. Most of the town is brand-new, built after an earthquake which flattened Fethiye in 1957, which strangely left the huge Lycian Sarcophagi that stand around virtually untouched.
PLACES TO SEE
The ruins of the city of soothsayers can still be seen on an extensive site stretching from the hill slopes to the gulf. The monumental fourth century BC LYCIAN TOMB of Amintas is easy to spot from below, in the form of a temple with two Ionic columns. On the left-hand column bears the inscription, “Amintas, son of Herpamias”.
Many sarcophaguses and rock graves can be seen in and around the town. The most important of these monumental graves, also belonging to the Lycian period, is located near the Turkish Post Office (PTT) building. The sarcophagus is decorated with bas-reliefs symbolising warriors. The ruins of a castle thought to belong to the Knights of St John lie in the TELMESSOS ACROPOLIS, on the high ground in the south of the city. The castle was also used during the Ottoman period.
A short climb reveals the rampart ruins, cistern and little rock graves on the eastern side of the hill. The AMPHITHEATRE OF TELMESSOS was discovered during excavations just above the quay. The theatre was constructed during the early Roman period and was restored in the 2nd century A.D.. It has a capacity of 5,000 seats and was used as an arena in the Byzantine age. At present, Telmessos Theatre has a capacity of 1,500 seats and preparations for its restoration are under way. Among the works of the Ottoman period are the OLD MOSQUE & FETHIYE HAMAMI (Bath-house) built in 1791. Both of these buildings are to be found in the PASPATUR BAZAAR. The bath, which was established over six aqueducts and has 14 domes, is still in use. In 2001, a monument was unveiled in commemoration of the Fethiye men who lost their lives during the War of Liberation, at Çanakkale, in Korea and in Cyprus. The reliefs surrounding the pedestal depict the soldiers who died during these wars.
DEAD SEA (Ölüdeniz)
The so-called Dead Sea has become one of Turkey’s best-known touristic images. It can be reached by boat from Fethiye. Alternatively, a rough 14-km road through the forest suddenly opens out on Belcekiz Bay, and the Sea comes into sight as you walk towards the beach. The Sea appears to be under a spell, for there is no movement whatsoever. There is not the slightest trace of seaweed, and the seabed is covered with white sand. The light under the water is turquoise, enriched by the shadows of the pines.
BELCEKIZ was the name of a love-struck girl of legend who threw herself from a cliff when her lover did not return. In ancient times, ships would cast anchor here and the crews go ashore in rowing boats to fetch drinking water. One day, the handsome son of an old captain goes ashore and sees the beautiful Belcekiz living there, and falls in love with her and wins her heart. But the boy must take the water, the ship must sail and Belcekiz must wait for her beloved on the shore. The next time the ship passes, he will come to fetch water again, and they will make love. These visits are repeated many times. One day, a storm blows up as the ship is sailing in the area. The boy tells his father that there is a well-protected bay where they will be safe. But aware that his son has fallen in love, the old captain suspects he is willing to sacrifice the ship for the sake of a visit to his lover. The two begin to quarrel. With the ship about to strike a rock, the captain pushes his son into to the sea and grabs the wheel. And what should he see just then but a calm bay ahead? The son drowns, and the place of his death is known as the Dead Sea ever after. The girl perishes on the rocks and her name is given for eternity to the spot where she expired.
DALYAN (FISH WEIR) & CAUNUS
The modern town Dalyan is located on the east bank of the DALYAN CAYI (RIVER) and the ancient CARIAN CITY OF CAUNUS lies on the western bank. The Dalyan Cayi is the stream that meanders down to the sea from Koycegiz Lake a short distance inland. The beach has been made a protected area as the breeding-ground of CARETTA CARETTA , the loggerhead turtle. According to Herodotus, people of Caunus were the natives of Caria and resisted to the Persians during their conquest of Caria in the 6C BC. Later it was sold to Rhodes by Egyptian generals in the 2C BC. In the 1C BC, they allied with Mithridates VI in Pontic king’s wars and eventually lost. Malaria was endemic and many people contracted it. Silting of the harbor was another major problem in the history of the city. As a result, Caunus had a bad reputation.
THE SITE : Hellenistic fortification remains with a tower and a gateway on the acropolis hill, rock-cut Lycian tombs, a Hellenistic stoa, a fountain house, a palaestra, a theater, a Byzantine church and the terrace temple are among the ruins of the ancient city of Caunus.
BEACHES : The beaches of Karagözler I and II are located inside Fethiye. The waves are tiny even in windy weather, and swimming is easy. The municipal boathouses facilitate all kinds of water sports. But the most renowned beaches around the centre of Fethiye are Çalis and Karagözler. Çalis beach is a narrow, 5 km beach. Situated outside the Gulf, it is generally windy, and very suitable for surfing. There are frequent bus and minibus services to the beach – a distance of some 4 km. Hotels, restaurants, bars and shopping centers line the road and dot the shore. The yörük tent in the beach is a major attraction. Here, the dying culture of the nomads is exhibited and promoted, together with their cuisine. There are numerous other beaches around Fethiye. The Kidrak and Belcegiz beaches on the Ölüdeniz (Dead Sea) are known not only in Fethiye and Turkey but also throughout the world. Hamam Bay is continuously visited by day-trippers, while yacht parties making the Blue Voyage spend the night here. The ruins of a Byzantine monastery, partly submerged, can be seen near the harbour. The location is ideal for a stroll along the shore or into the forest, where arbour restaurants serve the yachting community. Visitors willing to attempt the half-hour uphill walk from Cleopatra Bay or Yavansu may also visit the ancient city of Lydae.
BOAT TRIPS & ISLANDS : Motorboat tours are available from the quay to the islands on the western and northwestern sides of the Gulf of Fethiye, departing at 10:00-11:00 a.m. and returning before the sun sets. The twelve islands on the Göcek side make a popular itinerary. The tour stops at Kizilada (the Red Island), the Delikli (Perforated) Islands, the Yassica (Flattish) Islands, Tersane (Boathouse) Island and Domuz (Pig) Island. Tasyaka Bay, on the northwestern shore of Tersane Island, is more commonly known as Bedri Rahmi Bay, since the painter Bedri Rahmi Eyüpoglu painted a fish on a rock here. There are wooden restaurants along the bay and wooden jetties for the yachts. Gösün Bay is a long bay, surrounded by pine and olive trees, in the south of Domuz Island. There are rock tombs and ancient ruins.
The bay is another favourite choice of Blue Voyage yachts.There is usually a break at the Cleopatra Baths. The last leg of any boat tour out of Fethiye is the Sövalye (Knight) Island, situated at the entrance to the Gulf, as if to protect it. Once used by the Knights of Rhodes, the island is also inhabited today. There are summer houses, a motel and a cafes, and the island is served by regular boat services. Gemile Island, situated opposite the bay and beach of the same name, was formerly known as Aya Nicola. It is known for its ruined early Christian and Byzantine churches with well-reserved frescos. There are ruins of cistern along the shore. As a result of the earthquakes in 240 and 241, some of the ruins now lie two metres under the sea. Most interesting of all is the 500-metre tunnel which connects the two churches. Parts of the tunnel are intact. On the stairs inside the tunnel are 17 stopping places said to represent the points where Jesus Christ rested on the way to his crucifixion.
SPORTS ACTIVITIES
TREKKING : For trekkers, the Lycian Way is ideal. Starting from the slopes of Babadag in Ovacik village, the trek takes in ancient cities such as Faralya, Dodurga, Pinara, Letoon, Xanthos as well as the Lycian cities and mountain villages of the nearby districts of Kas and Kemer. There are arrows indicating the itinerary at 100m intervals, and the walk can be extended as far as Antalya. Less ambitious is the scenic one-hour walk between Kayaköy and Afkule. Replete with icy streams, the plateau is known as Kirkpinar (Forty Springs).
PARAGLIDING : It is not surprising therefore that Olu Deniz has become something of a mecca for paragliding enthusiasts from all over the world. This corner of the Mediterranean , extending into the clear warm waters of the Southern Aegean Sea , provides excellent paragliding conditions from April until November. With tandem rigs it is possible for almost anyone to participate in this adventure sport. Olu Deniz is surrounded on three sides by impressive mountains and is fast becoming the place to be in Turkey for serious paragliders. For those who wish to obtain a paragliding license, there are paragliding schools which arrange “learn to paraglide” courses. The course varies from 5 days to 10 days and upon completion your get a worldwide recognized paragliding pilot certificate.
DIVING : For the absolute beginner and certified diver the crystal clear turquoise waters in Oludeniz and Fethiye area offer a variety of diving from calm shallow reefs to caverns, walls, drop offs and tunnels. Day trips from Olu deniz towards Fethiye and towards Kabak Reef operate throughout the year. Both beginners and experienced divers will appreciate the underwater scenery at Guvercinlik Bay, the fascinating Paradise Garden and the exciting diving at Afkule.
SHOPPING : Fethiye’s Tuesday bazaar is clean and lively, with separate sections for fruit and vegetables and for clothes and handicrafts. However, if you miss the Tuesday bazaar, there is still plenty to see at the Paspatur shopping centre opposite the district governor’s office. Within the last two years, this bazaar has become an important attraction, thanks to the efforts of the Municipality, offering fish, fruits, vegetables, handicrafts and clothing to Turkish and foreign tourists alike. Prices are reasonable, and there are plenty of kebap, pide and home cooking options on hand should you become a little peckish.
|
